Incorrect voltage

Check the line voltage terminals in the control box (or connection box for two-wire models) with a voltmeter. Make sure that the voltage is within the minimum-maximum range prescribed by the manufacturer.

If voltage is incorrect, contact the power company for service.

Overheated control or starter

If sunlight or other sources of heat makes the box too hot, overload may trip or fuses may blow. If box is hot to the touch, this may be the problem.

Ventilate or shade the box, or remove it from the source of the heat.

Defective control box components (For three wire pumps only - skip this for two-wire models)

Using an ohmmeter, X1000 scale, determine the resistance across the disconnected starting capacitor. When contact is made, the ohmmeter should jump toward 0, and then drift back slowly toward infinity. No movement indicates an open capacitor; low resistance.

Replace defective components.

Defective motor winding or cable

Check the resistance of the motor winding by using an ohmmeter on the proper terminals in the control box (see manufacturer's wiring diagram). The resistance should match the ohms specified in the manufacturer's data sheet. If too low, drop wire sized wrong or bad windings .

If neither cable or winding is defective-shorted, grounded or open-the pump must be pulled and serviced.

Pump is overloading

If the fuses blow or overloads trip while the pump is operating, check the line amps. If reading is more than 5 percent above the manufacturer's nameplate value, the pump is overloading, which indicates a defective pump and/or motor.

Pull pump, disassemble from motor and replace one or both, if defective.

If Pump still not running contact Customer Service

Overload protection tripped

Check overloads and circuit breaker to see of they are operable.

Reset overloads or circuit breaker.

No Power

Check power supply to control box (or overload protection box) by placing a voltmeter across the incoming power lines. Voltage should approximate nominal line voltage.

If no power is reaching box, contact power company for service.

Defective control box

Examine wiring in the control box to make sure all contacts are tight. With a voltmeter, check voltage at line and motor terminals. If no voltage is shown at terminals, wiring is defective from pressure switch or in control box.

Correct faulty wiring or tighten loose contacts.

If Pump still not running contact Customer Service

Check the resistance of the motor winding by using an ohmmeter on the proper terminals in the control box (see manufacturer's wiring diagram). The resistance should match the ohms specified in the manufacturer's data sheet. If too low, drop wire sized wrong or bad windings .

If neither cable or winding is defective-shorted, grounded or open-the pump must be pulled and serviced.

Pump may be air locked

Stop and start the pump several times, waiting about one minute between cycles. If the pump then resumes normal delivery, air lock was the trouble.

If this test fails to correct the trouble, proceed with the steps that follow.

Low voltage

Check voltage at control box with pump running. Check incoming wire size and power supply wire size against chart in your manual.

Install larger wire from meter to control box. Install larger wire from control box to pump. If necessary, have power company raise power supply voltage.

Water level in well too low

Amount of water in well (recovery rate) may be too low for pump capacity. Restrict the flow of pump output, then wait for well to recover and start pump.

If partial restriction corrects trouble, leave valve or cock at restricted setting. Otherwise, lower pump in well if depth is sufficient. Do not lower if sand clogging might occur.

Discharge line check valve installed backward

Examine check valve on discharge line to make sure that the arrow indicating direction of flow points in the right direction.

Reverse the valve, if necessary.

Leak in drop pipe

Raise the pipe and examine for leaks.

Replace the damaged section of drop pipe.

Pump check valve jammed by drop pipe

When pump is pulled after completing step 5, examine connection of drop pipe to pump outlet. If threaded section of drop pipe has been screwed in too far, it may be jamming the pump's check valve in the closed position.

Unscrew the drop pipe and cut off a portion of threads.

Pump intake screen blocked

The intake screen on the pump may be blocked by sand or mud. Examine.

Clean the screen and when reinstalling the pump, make sure that it is located several feet above the well bottom-preferably 10 feet or more.

Pump parts worn

The presence of abrasives in the water may result in excessive wear on the impeller, casing and other close-clearance parts. Before pulling the pump, reduce setting on pressure to see if the pump shuts off. If it does, worn parts are probably at fault.

Pull the pump and replace worn components.

Motor shaft uncoupled

Coupling between motor and pump shaft may have worn out or worked loose. Inspect for this after pulling the pump and looking for worn components, as in step 8.

Tighten all connections and setscrews. Replace parts if worn out.

If Pump still not running properly contact Customer Service

Water level in well too low

The wells ability to deliver watter to the pump may be too low for the pump capacity. Restrict the flow of pump output, wait for the well to recover, and then start pump.

If partial restriction corrects trouble, leave the valve or cock at restricted setting. Otherwise, lower pump into well if depth is sufficient. Do not lower if sand clogging might occur.

Leak in drop line

Raise the pipe and examine for leaks.

Replace the damaged section of the drop pipe.

Pump parts worn

The presence of abrasives in the water may result in excessive wear on the impeller, casing and other close-clearance parts. Before pulling the pump, reduce setting on pressure to see if the pump shuts off. If it does, worn parts are probably at fault.

Pull the pump and replace worn components.

If Pump still not running contact Customer Service